Thomas Jonas (H.93): plant-based leather for sustainable fashion
Thomas Jonas, co-founder of Nature’s Fynd, is one of the leading figures in sustainable innovation. He graduated from HEC Paris in 1993 and was elected “HEC of the Year 2022” for his outstanding contributions to biotechnology.
With his foodtech, he has turned scientific discoveries into concrete solutions, first for food and now for the fashion industry. In September 2024, Stella McCartney, queen of eco-responsible fashion, marked a turning point: a vegetable leather bag developed by Hydefy, the materials division of Nature’s Fynd, was presented at the Paris Fashion Week show.
HydeFy: revolutionary technology
“The Hi de Fy adventure began five years ago, with the ambition of creating materials based on microscopic fungi capable of competing with traditional leather,” Thomas Jonas and Rachel Lee, in charge of innovation at this revolutionary start-up, explain to HEC Stories. Using the Fusarium yellowstoneensis strain discovered in the volcanic springs of Yellowstone, Nature’s Fynd has developed a fermentation process that produces an alternative, bio-sourced vegetable leather. This material, which not only mimics the properties of animal leather, even ape-like in feel and smell, creates a new category of ethical and innovative products, while contributing to better resource management.
In an interview, Thomas Jonas explains that the main motivation behind this project is sustainability, with the aim of limiting environmental impact while offering high-end solutions to the luxury industry. While the reduction of animal cruelty is important to the team, it is the fight against climate change and the optimization of resources that are at the heart of their approach.
A strategic partnership with Stella McCartney
The daughter of ex-Beatle Paul McCartney and animal rights activist Linda McCartney is also a sustainability consultant for LVMH. A well-known figure in the fashion world for over two decades, the Brit is increasingly combative against animal fur, waste in the fashion industry and, of course, the use of bird feathers. So who better than Stella McCartney to use the technology developed by Hydefy in her leather goods collection?
The vegetable leather bag presented at the Stella McCartney show perfectly embodies this vision. For the past three years, the fashion house and Nature’s Fynd have been working in secret to perfect this unique material. Thomas Jonas explains that collaborating with such an influential brand has enabled his team to validate and improve their technology thanks to feedback from fashion professionals.
This alliance comes at a time when consumers and brands are increasingly looking for sustainable alternatives without compromising on aesthetics and quality. Stella McCartney, a pioneer in ethical fashion, has established itself as an ideal partner for Hydefy, proving that luxury and sustainability can go hand in hand.
A promising future for alternative leather
While alternative leather remains more expensive than animal leather today, Jonas expects prices to fall as large-scale production develops. With growing demand for bio-sourced materials and increasing competition in the vegan leather industry, Nature’s Fynd is well positioned to democratize these innovations.
The future looks bright for Jonas and his team. While Nature’s Fynd is still awaiting regulatory approval to market its food products in Europe, its fashion innovations continue to make waves. Stella McCartney’s vegan leather bag is just the beginning, and other prestigious collaborations could follow, further pushing the boundaries of sustainability in the fashion industry and beyond.
By combining technology, sustainability and haute couture, Thomas Jonas proves that the future of fashion lies in environmentally-friendly alternatives. With prestigious collaborations and constant innovation, Hydefy looks set to redefine industry standards, while offering sustainable solutions for future generations.
© Stella McCartney
Published by Lionel Barcilon