In the now nearly iconic Paris offices of the Finoli Group — parent company of Patyka — we met with Pierre Juhen (H.08), one of the cofounders of the high-end organic skincare brand. Between their institute, laboratory, and training schools, four entire floors bear the Patyka name. Dressed in a sharp suit, this young yet accomplished leader takes HEC Stories back to where it all began.

A Meeting on Campus

It all began on the lawns of HEC, during a rugby match. Pierre Juhen and Grégory Declercq (H.08), both sons of military families, discovered parallel paths and a shared ambition: to build a French industrial group. “It all started with a meeting,” recalls Pierre Juhen. “A connection built on shared values. We both came from modest backgrounds but were driven by the idea of creating a lasting group, even if we didn’t yet know how.”

The duo first tried their hand at student entrepreneurship with Megopack, a start-up that designed the first eco-friendly ashtrays. After graduation, they embarked on an external growth project in the education sector by acquiring Sylvia Terrade, a beauty school in Lyon. The group’s revenue grew from €2 million to €20 million in EBITDA before being sold in 2020. But at the same time, another adventure was taking shape — that of Patyka.

Reviving a Pioneer of Organic Beauty

Founded in Paris in 2002, Patyka was the first French cosmetics brand to earn organic certification. When it was acquired in 2013 by Finoli—the group founded by Pierre and Grégory, soon joined by Alexandre Benamran—it generated just €500,000 in annual revenue and was confined to specialized retail networks such as Biocoop and Naturalia. “There were some iconic formulas, but above all, a strong idea: proving that organic could be premium,” explains Pierre Juhen. “At the time, clean beauty didn’t exist yet. We were almost alone in offering certified products, which came with far stricter standards than those of so-called ‘natural’ brands.”

Certification requires formulas made of at least 95% natural ingredients and 20% from organic farming—thresholds Patyka consistently exceeds, averaging 99% and 40%. From the outset, the brand has gone further in eco-design too, using fully recycled and recyclable packaging.

 

High-Performance Skincare, Made in France

The real turning point came with a complete overhaul of Patyka’s formulas. The brand positioned itself in the technical skincare segment—particularly anti-aging—then largely dominated by conventional cosmetics. “We didn’t want women to have to choose between efficacy and natural ingredients,” insists Juhen. “Our bet was to prove that organic skincare could compete with the best standards on the market.”

In 2015, the Fundamental Plumping Serum and Pro-Collagen Lift Mask became pharmacy bestsellers, each ranking first in its category. Today, the catalogue includes more than sixty advanced formulas, all developed in the brand’s in-house laboratory in Paris, founded five years ago. The choice of made in France is deliberate and proudly claimed: half of the ingredients are sourced locally—from apricots, almonds, and other French origins—and so is the packaging. “It’s an expensive choice,” he admits, “but it’s part of who we are as a brand.”

A Selective Distribution Strategy

Patyka has also built its success on carefully chosen, high-end distribution channels. The brand is now available in 1,200 French pharmacies—among the 1,500 largest in the country—as well as in major department stores and premium retail chains such as Oh My Cream, Monoprix, and Marionnaud. “Each of these choices required heavy, costly investments—but they were deliberate,” says Pierre calmly. “It’s thanks to the Finoli Group that we were able to finance this growth without raising external funds. We’ve remained 100% independent.”

Growth and Diversification

Twelve years on, the bet has paid off: Patyka now generates €30 million in annual revenue, up from less than €500,000 at the time of its acquisition. Since 2013, the brand has enjoyed an average annual growth rate of 40%. But the Finoli Group’s ambitions extend well beyond cosmetics. In addition to its beginnings in education, it has developed School of Arts, which brings together several creative and music schools (3,000 students, €25 million in revenue). The group also made a successful foray into nutritional supplements with Nutrimuscle, a brand it sold in 2022 after increasing its revenue eightfold.

An International Ambition

While 60% of Patyka’s sales are still generated in France, its international presence is growing fast. About 25% now comes from subsidiaries in Italy, Spain, Switzerland, and Belgium, with the remainder driven by joint ventures and local distributors. The latest strategic milestone is a joint venture with the Chalhoub Group to expand the brand across the Gulf countries. “We’ve just launched Patyka in Saudi Arabia, in the country’s largest pharmacy chain, Al Nahdi. It’s a major turning point,” says the alumnus, whose network now spans the globe.

Toward Carbon Neutrality

Committed to sustainability from the start, the brand has strengthened its CSR policy over the years. With organic certifications, B Corp status, and the designation of Entreprise à Mission since 2022, Patyka has set a clear goal: achieving carbon neutrality by 2030. This means electrifying its sales fleet, sourcing ever more locally, and conducting full product life-cycle analyses. “It’s essential for us,” says the cofounder. “Creating a great formula isn’t enough if the packaging or the supply chain betrays your commitments.” A fitting statement from a brand that’s still got plenty left to apply.

What’s Next?

With steady growth and a unique position balancing efficacy and naturality, Patyka now aims to strengthen its status as a French independent premium skincare brand. Expansion in the Gulf region, combined with key European markets, marks the beginning of a new phase of development.

“We see ourselves more as business builders than brand creators,” concludes Pierre Juhen. “Patyka’s story shows that with consistency and a long-term vision, it’s possible to build a strong French brand with global reach.”

 

Avatar photo

Published by