Michaut, Professor at HEC, has explored Millennials’ behavior toward sustainable luxury. What drives their choices, their contradictions, and their expectations? The results are sometimes surprising—but they can be explained by the very essence of luxury.

You’ve conducted research on Millennials’ sensitivity to sustainable luxury. Are the results somewhat paradoxical?
Indeed. It appears that Generation Y, which is more engaged than the previous one in terms of sustainable development, does not consider sustainability a key factor when making a luxury purchase. No one walks into a Vuitton store asking for a sustainable bag. Those who proactively demand sustainability are a minority. In fact, this generation often sees luxury as superficial and as a marker of social status. For Millennials, there seems to be a kind of opposition between luxury and sustainable development, which implies frugality and social equity. And yet, the luxury sector accounts for billions of euros in spending each year.

How do you explain these contradictions?
One explanation is that luxury purchases are exceptional events. Millennials are more mindful of sustainability when it comes to everyday products—like coffee—because they feel their impact is greater. But when it’s a one-off purchase, sustainability isn’t the priority. Another key explanation is that buying luxury is often a moment of pleasure. It’s not necessarily a time when people want to think about climate change or human suffering.

So, when it comes to luxury, are Millennials willing to compromise on sustainability?
It’s not that simple. Just because sustainability isn’t a purchase criterion doesn’t mean it’s not important. If customers find out that a brand doesn’t follow responsible practices, that can become a reason to boycott or avoid it. It would be shocking for consumers to discover that a luxury product isn’t sustainable.

Sustainability is part of luxury’s values. High-end fashion uses rare, natural materials designed to last. It emphasizes quality over quantity, unlike fast fashion. It relies on artisanal craftsmanship. For Millennials, sustainability is inherent to luxury, so they don’t feel the need to demand it. It seems obvious to them that luxury should be exemplary in social and environmental respect. In their minds, luxury equals perfection—and a perfect product must be sustainable. A product made with toxic materials, for example, could never be considered perfect.

How can brands position themselves in this context?
It’s still essential for brands to remain vigilant in their commitment to sustainability. Ignoring it would be risky. Reputation is key in the luxury industry—not just for clients, but for investors too. No luxury group can afford to skip a solid CSR policy. However, since sustainability is seen as inherent to luxury, many brands end up communicating very little about it. They comply with legal requirements for annual sustainability reporting, but they don’t necessarily make it a part of their brand narrative. Their primary goal is to sell a dream.

Only a few brands leverage sustainability in their communication, because it aligns directly with their story and products. This is the case for Stella McCartney, who embraced this approach from the very beginning. It’s also true for the Italian brand Loro Piana, known for fashion items made from natural fibers (cashmere, linen, silk), which has supported programs to protect vicuñas in South America. In such cases, sustainability is truly part of the brand’s DNA and narrative. Among younger brands, many are being built on social or environmental values—for example, Fenty Beauty and Off-White, which emphasize inclusivity and diversity.

Your work focused mainly on the Millennial generation. What about other generations?
To our surprise, the study revealed that generational differences weren’t as pronounced as expected. Nor were there major national differences, even though the research was conducted in six countries (France, Germany, the United States, Brazil, China, and Japan).

That said, the way each generation approaches sustainability in luxury has evolved. For older consumers—those born well before the rise of mega luxury brands in the 1990s—a brand was a signature, but it wasn’t heavily marketed. Luxury was associated with tradition and craftsmanship. In the 2000s and 2010s, for Millennials, the customer experience became a priority. Today, Gen Z expects the luxury sector to reflect certain values—especially environmental responsibility, diversity, and respect. While many young people overconsume fast fashion, they wouldn’t tolerate luxury brands using the same methods. These younger generations are likely to push the luxury industry toward greater sustainability.

 

 

Are millennials really more sensitive to sustainable luxury? A cross-generational international comparison of sustainability consciousness when buying luxury 

Journal of Brand Management, January 2020, vol. 27, n° 1 (in coll. with J.-N. Kapferer)
 

Are Millennials really redefining luxury? A cross-generational analysis of perceptions of luxury from six countries 

Journal of Brand Strategy, Winter 2019, vol. 8, n° 3 (in coll. with J.-N. Kapferer) 

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